“I couldn’t understand where the name came from. So I checked the original garment, and it still had a price ticket hanging off the back, which was €130 (Euros), how much I had paid for the reference piece. They thought I’d called it E130.”—David Keyte, UW Co-Founder.
We have developed an archive of garments and fabrics that we have collected on all our travels over the years. These influence many of our pieces, and we thought you might be interested in some of the stories behind them.
First up, we take a closer look at the inspiration behind the E130. A workwear-inspired style (one of many!) with an accidental name.
What is the backstory of the jacket?
“When I first saw the jacket, at a trade fair in Paris, it reminded me of a lot of things I had bought from thrift stores and vintage stores in the ’80s which, as a young man, was where you could afford to buy interesting pieces. Back then, they were full of pieces from the ’50s and ’60s because they were the previous generation’s cast-offs. That shape, that blouson type style and shorter shape of jacket, was something that was really interesting to me. This particular piece had really great details and almost uniform elements to it: a really interesting elbow patch, really interesting pockets and an oversized collar. I bought the jacket in question, and I took it to a sample room that I was working with to develop the UW version.”
What is the story behind the name?
“We made a prototype, and it came back with a name on it. And I couldn’t understand where the name came from. So I checked the original garment, and it still had a price ticket hanging off the back, which was €130 (Euros), how much I had paid for the reference piece. They thought I’d called it E130.”
What changes were made to the UW version?
“We added a useful, more modern side entry pocket, we emphasised the shape with darting and gave it a slightly bigger fit. But mostly the details are the same as on the original. The really amazing shape of the elbow patch, really interesting collar, a lot of it is original but we try to improve it and move it on to be more contemporary."
What do you like about the two-way zip?
“We always add a two-way zip, so you can go up from the bottom as well as down from the top. For me, that’s important from a styling point of view. I want to have the flexibility that I have with buttons. So a zip that opens both ways is much more interesting. If you’re sitting in a car, you can unzip it to make it more comfortable, so it’s practical and stylish.”
How would you wear the E130?
“It’s not really short, it’s waist length, and it’s certainly what would nowadays be described as oversized, you don’t really need to size up for it to be quite a loose fitting jacket. It looks great with a pair of jeans or a matching trouser. With a bit more confidence, I think it can work really well with a longer layer underneath, such as a shirt or a t-shirt, so you can see the different layers, which I think is really “right now”. It’s just a very versatile jacket."
You might see this elsewhere referred to as the S130, which has a slight amend to the pocket and collar size, but is otherwise the same. Slight changes means new pattern, and that means we had to name this something different. This time we went for S, referencing the American dollar.
“I couldn’t understand where the name came from. So I checked the original garment, and it still had a price ticket hanging off the back, which was €130 (Euros), how much I had paid for the reference piece. They thought I’d called it E130.”—David Keyte, UW Co-Founder.
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There is no right way. The chore jacket began as a practical garment, a layer worn over everyday clothes, it has never been defined by a particular fit. Some people prefer a neater fit, worn almost as a blazer, while others size up to allow for knitwear and heavier layering underneath. What matters is ease of movement, comfort, and the feeling that it belongs naturally with the rest of your wardrobe.Whether worn with jeans, fatigue pants or as part of a casual suit, a good chore jacket should feel easy to wear and easy to make your own. It can be dressed up or down, layered over a T-shirt or a shirt and tie. That versatility is part of its appeal, and probably one of the reasons it has outlasted so many trends.
There are no hard rules. The beauty of an overshirt is that it is one of the most adaptable pieces in a wardrobe, sitting somewhere between a shirt and a jacket and happily performing as either. Some of our overshirts lean closer to traditional shirting. Worn open over a T-shirt, they can feel a little more considered than a shirt with a two-piece collar.Others take their cues from workwear and function more as a lightweight alternative to a jacket when the weather allows. Wear it open, wear it buttoned up, layer it under a coat or throw it on in place of a jacket. They all share the same useful quality of adaptability. Equally comfortable with a T-shirt, knitwear or tailoring, an overshirt tends to find its own place in your wardrobe.
It is a fair question. After all, any shirt worn over a T-shirt could claim to be an overshirt.An overshirt is one of those garments that is easier to recognise than define. For us, an overshirt occupies the space between a shirt and a jacket, although it generally leans toward the jacket side. Our earliest versions were essentially chore jackets made from lighter-weight cloth, creating an uncomplicated layer. They offered the practicality and ease of a jacket without the structure.Today, some of our overshirts still resemble simplified jackets, while others retain the details of traditional shirting but are made from fabrics with enough substance to be worn as outerwear. Since then, the category has expanded in two directions. Some of our overshirts remain distinctly jacket-like, with patch pockets and simple workwear styling. Others borrow more from classic shirting, but are cut from sturdier fabrics that make them ideal as an outer layer.If "overshirt" feels a little vague, that's because it is. We simply think of them as versatile pieces that can be worn as either a shirt or a jacket, depending on the season, the fabric and how you choose to wear them.
The name ‘chore’ comes from the everyday jobs, or “chores” that this style of jacket was made for. Before workwear was a sought after style, it was simply what you put on to get something done, or to keep your own clothes clean while you did it. The chore jacket, in both name and style, is derived from this workwear heritage.Most versions of chore jackets share the same make-up: hard-wearing cotton or drill, a button front, and big patch pockets sized for tools, a notebook or lunch. Different countries historically had their own specific take on this. The French had the bleu de travail, the blue cotton jacket worn across their labour force; America had its chore and engineer's jackets; and plenty of British trades wore something close to both. So many have worn a version of the chore jacket that it has become a sort of unofficial uniform of workers, makers and artisans the world over.
What is unique about Universal Works' chore jackets?
Our mainstay chore jacket is the Bakers Jacket. The name is in homage to a baker, our founder's father, who wore a coverall to work every day. It has been our staple since the first collection: chore-styled, buttoning to the neck in a coverall way, but made to be worn where you would wear an ordinary collared jacket. Its defining feature is the slanted buttonhole on the front stand, a nod to the pocket watch chains once worn by workers. Five patch pockets, including a stitched-through internal chest pocket and a lower pocket with additional internal compartment, which add both function and character. Front and back panelling brings shape and structure, setting it apart from the simple coveralls that inspired it.Over the years our Bakers chore jacket line has grown into a small family: Original Bakers, Bakers OG, Simple Bakers, into Labour, Field and the shorter, flap-pocketed Warmus and Franck.Read the full story of the name in our Journal: Why's it called a Bakers Jacket?